胡同文化｜砖塔胡同：胡同文化之根见证七百年历史兴衰

Hutong Culture｜Zhuanta Hutong: A Witness of 700-Year-Old Hutong Culture in Beijing

探秘胡同深处的

京味文化

Explore Beijing culture

hidden in hutongs 

胡同是什么？大大小小的四合院相互挨着，排列在两侧街道上,它们之间留出的通道就是胡同。胡同也可以说是一种古老的城市小巷。千百年来，胡同与北京的发展紧密相关，也是北京历史文化演绎发展的缩影，这里不仅集合了中华古都文化、红色文化、京味文化，而且凝结了北京特有的文化精神与气韵。随意漫步在任何一条胡同里，都能感受到古老的历史气息。

今天我们将一同去观览这条充满古色古香的北京胡同之“根”——砖塔胡同。

What is a hutong? Hutong refers to an alley flanked by siheyuan (quadrangle residences) on both sides. It is a kind of old lanes and alleys in cities. Across centuries, hutongs have always been closely related to Beijing’s development. As an epitome of the evolution of Beijing’s history and culture, they not only concentrate ancient capital culture, revolutionary culture and old Beijing culture, but also demonstrate Beijing’s unique cultural spirit and flair. Roaming in any hutong feels like traveling into history.

Today we will go to see Zhuanta Hutong, the"root" of Beijing Hutong, which is full of antiquity and historical memory.

砖塔胡同

Zhuanta Hutong

砖塔胡同位于西城区金融街街道，东起西四南大街，西止太平桥大街，全长805米，是北京历史最悠久的胡同之一。胡同在每个朝代的功能不同，从元朝的戏曲中心到清代的军事用地再到近现代的民居，生活变迁和战乱对砖塔胡同都造成了一定程度的破坏，如今胡同风貌保存较好的是长312米的胡同东段。

One of the oldest hutongs (lanes) in Beijing, Zhuanta Hutong, located in Jinrongjie Sub-district, Xicheng District, extends 805 meters westwards from Xisi South Street to Taipingqiao Street. The functions of hutongs varied in different historical periods. In the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), hutongs served as venues of traditional opera performances, and they were used for military purpose during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). And in modern and contemporary times, they function as residential areas. In the past, warfare and changes of lifestyles both caused certain damage to Zhuanta Hutong, leaving only the 312-meter east section still well-preserved. 

Photo from iBeijinger

北京胡同的“根”

据有关人士考证，当时元大都出现过29条胡同，但只有一条胡同有文字记载，即从元、明、清、民国，到今天，都有文献可考，这条胡同，就是砖塔胡同。因此，砖塔胡同也被认为是北京胡同的“根”。

Research shows that there were 29 hutongs in Dadu, the capital of the Yuan Dynasty, of which Zhuanta Hutong is the only one appearing in historical records from the Yuan, Ming (1368-1644), Qing dynasties until this day. Therefore, Zhuanta Hutong is considered the“root” of Beijing hutongs. 

胡同地标：万松老人塔

Landmark of Zhuanta Hutong

Pagoda of Monk Wansong

砖塔胡同中的“万松老人塔”是一个八角形的密檐式砖塔，塔高16米，也是北京城内现存的唯一一座砖塔。该塔是世人共同修建的，用以纪念一位饱读诗书、学识渊博的老学者。老人本姓蔡，名行秀，来自河南洛阳。他一生云游四方，精通禅学，世人尊称其为"万松老人"。

The Pagoda of Monk Wansong is an octagonal brick pagoda with multiple eaves as tall as 16 meters. It is the only existing ancient brick pagoda in Beijing. The pagoda was built to honor a knowledgeable scholar named Cai Xingxiu. A native of Luoyang, Henan Province, he traveled around the country and excelled at Zen Buddhism, and people venerated him as“Monk Wansong.”

图片来源：微博文旅北京

Photo from Weibo Beijing Bureau of Culture and Tourism

关于这个塔也有很多历史故事，相传在元朝定都北京的时候，元世祖、耶律楚材慕名而来，投身门下，参学三年，而万松老人也常以“以儒治国，以佛治心”来教导学生。其弟子耶律楚材为官期间，谨记老师的教诲，做出了不少有利于社会发展的事情。在朝中大臣希望以极端的解决方式治国时，他极力反对通过杀戮的方式安定天下，而是采用征税纳税等方式丰盈国库，避免了野蛮的做法，使得中原千百万的生灵免于涂炭。

There are many stories about the pagoda. Legend goes that after the Yuan Dynasty moved its capital to Beijing, Emperor Shizu and his assistant Yelü Chucai spent three years studying from Monk Wansong, who advocated“governing the state with Confucianism and cultivating the mind with Buddhism”. Bearing his teacher’s instructions in mind, Yelü Chucai made great contributions to social progress. As some ministers suggested handling social conflict with extreme measures, he opposed pacifying the state through killings, but proposed increasing the treasury revenues through taxation. This policy protected millions of people in the Central Plain region from brutality. 

正阳书局局部图

图片来源：微博文旅北京

Part of Zhengyang Bookstore

Photo from Weibo Beijing Bureau of Culture and Tourism

经过各朝代的修复以及近现代政府对它大规模重修，塔的整体建筑架构比较完整，成为砖塔胡同的一大特色建筑。现在，塔内设立书局并对外开放，提供了相关的书籍资料等供人们翻阅。

After renovations over the past dynasties and large-scale reconstruction in modern times, the pagoda retains its overall framework and stands as a landmark in Zhuanta Hutong. Nowadays, a bookstore in the pagoda is open to the public, where people can find relevant books and historical documents. 

小巷里的锣鼓喧天

Traditional Opera Performances

in a Small Lane 

牛王庙戏台—元代木构亭式舞台

图片来源：百度百科

Niuwangmiao Stage, a wooden-structure pavilion-style theater of the Yuan Dynasty

Photo from Baidu Baike

元代以戏曲著称，当时的元大都城是戏剧中心，砖塔胡同是北京城最热闹的地方之一，也是戏曲活动的中心。当时，这条胡同里汇集了许多优秀的戏剧家，孕育了特有的“勾栏文化”。勾栏，是指宋元戏曲在城市中的主要表演场所，相当于现在的剧场。

勾栏内有戏台、戏房、神楼及腰棚，大勾栏可容纳数千人观戏。整个勾栏剧场是木结构的，戏台周围是用栏杆围起来的，所以叫“勾栏”，人们能联想到与歌舞相关的娱乐活动大都与勾栏有关，因此，勾栏的出现也标志着元杂剧达到了高峰。元明清戏曲一直以来都是戏曲文化中不可分裂的一部分，而砖塔胡同是戏曲文化的重要载体。

The Yuan Dynasty is noted for its traditional operas. At the time, the capital city Dadu (today’s Beijing) served as a center of theatrical arts in China, and Zhuanta Hutong concentrated many traditional opera troupes, making it one of the most bustling places in Beijing. Back then, the lane was home to numerous dramatists and artists, fostering the distinctive“Goulan Culture”. 

Goulan refers to a venue for traditional opera performances in cities during the Song (960-1279) and Yuan dynasties, which is like today’s theaters. Typically, a Goulan consisted of the front stage, the backstage, the central stand, and side stands. A big Goulan could accommodate thousands of spectators. Goulan theaters were entirely wooden-structured, with balustrades surrounding the stage, hence the name“Goulan” (literally“surrounding balustrades”). Back then, all entertainment activities such as song and dance performances were held at Goulan. The emergence of Goulan marked the peak of Yuan Dynasty dramas. During the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, Zhuanta Hutong served as an important carrier of traditional opera culture. 

砖塔胡同

Zhuanta Hutong

文人的驻足地

Concentration of the Literati 

图片来源：微博文旅北京

Photo from Weibo Beijing Bureau of Culture and Tourism

砖塔胡同历史悠久，19世纪时，许多文学大家先后在此居住。当年，鲁迅与弟弟周作人决裂后，曾迁到砖塔胡同61号院（今84号）居住了近十个月，期间还不断地进行文学小说的创作。与鲁迅先生一样，在中国现代文学史中占有重要地位的作家张恨水也在此胡同居住过，据说，鲁迅先生的母亲也十分喜爱张恨水先生的小说，《金粉世家》、《啼笑因缘》等具有浓厚时代色彩的小说均为张恨水先生的作品。

图片来源：北京早知道

Photo from iBeijinger

如今的砖塔胡同，大杂院紧密相连，古树林立，经过数百年的变迁，已经演变成了普通的市井胡同。

Zhuanta Hutong boasts a long history. In the 19th century, many renowned writers dwelled here. After he broke up with his brother Zhou Zuoren, famous writer Lu Xun lived in No.61 Compound (present No.84) of Zhuanta Hutong for nearly 10 months, during which he continued to create novels. Like Mr. Lu Xun, Zhang Henshui, an eminent writer who occupies a significant position in the history of modern Chinese literature, once lived in the lane. It is said that Lu Xu’s mother liked Zhang Henshui’s novels. His novels that reflected the features of the times include A Family of Distinction and Fate in Tears and Laughter.

Today’s Zhuanta Hutong features interconnected compounds and countless ancient trees. After centuries of vicissitudes, it has become an ordinary hutong inhabited by ordinary people. However, Zhengyang Bookstore close to the Pagoda of Monk Wansong is safeguarding the root of Beijing hutongs with reading, culture, and books. 

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Please follow us on the“Hutong Culture” series

胡同是北京深厚久远历史的产物，在这里你能够体会到最正宗的老北京味儿。北京的胡同，任岁月变迁，依旧不急不缓地伸展着，向来者讲述着自己的前世今生，《胡同文化》系列栏目将继续走进北京的老胡同，打捞记忆深处的胡同文化，敬请期待！

Hutongs are fruits of Beijing’s development in a long time, where you can taste the most orthodox flavor of the ancient capital. With the changes of the times, Beijing’s hutongs are still gradually evolving. They tell visitors the past and present stories of Beijing. The“Hutong Culture” series will continue brining audiences to old lanes of Beijing to awaken memories of the old hutong culture. Please stay tuned.