胡同文化｜探秘名称与真相南辕北辙的古韵胡同——礼士胡同

Hutong Culture ｜Lishi Hutong: Can You Guest How Its Name Originated?

图片来源：文旅北京微博

探秘胡同深处的

京味文化

Explore Beijing culture

hidden in hutongs 

胡同是什么？大大小小的四合院相互挨着，排列在两侧街道上,它们之间留出的通道就是胡同。胡同也可以说是一种古老的城市小巷。千百年来，胡同与北京的发展紧密相关，也是北京历史文化演绎发展的缩影，这里不仅集合了中华古都文化、红色文化、京味文化，而且凝结了北京特有的文化精神与气韵。随意漫步在任何一条胡同上，都能感受到古老的历史气息。

今天我们推荐的这条胡同，是条幽深的巷子。胡同深处有浓郁的绿荫，两旁是灰色的墙壁和屋瓦。它就是礼士胡同！

What is a hutong? Hutong refers to an alley flanked by siheyuan (quadrangle residences) on both sides. It is a kind of old lanes and alleys in cities. Across centuries, hutongs have always been closely related to Beijing’s development. As an epitome of the evolution of Beijing’s history and culture, they not only concentrate ancient capital culture, revolutionary culture and old Beijing culture, but also demonstrate Beijing’s unique cultural spirit and flair. Roaming in any hutong feels like traveling into history.

Today, we’d like to recommend a tranquil hutong (lane) hidden in lush shade and lined with residences featuring grey walls and tiles. It is Lishi Hutong. 

礼士胡同

Lishi Hutong

图片来源：触电新闻

Photo from M.itouchtv.cn

礼士胡同，名字很容易让想起“礼贤下士”这样的文雅之词，但这条胡同原名其实与“文雅”二字南辕北辙。

在明朝的时候，这条胡同是贩卖骡子和驴子的集市，人们便将这条胡同称之为“驴市胡同”。到了清末宣统年间，这个驴子市场被取消了，人们巧妙地取其谐音，变成了“礼士胡同”。

礼士胡同位于北京市东城区东南部，东起朝阳门南小街，西至东四南大街，南有支巷可通演乐胡同、灯草胡同，北有支巷可通前拐棒胡同、前炒面胡同，属朝阳门街道办事处管辖。

礼士胡同虽然看上去并不出众，但却是个名人荟萃之地。

The name of Lishi Hutong, literally“Being courteous to the wise and condescending to scholars”, inspires one to associate the alley to something elegant. However, its origins had nothing to do with scholars. 

Back in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the alley was a mule and donkey market, hence its name Lüshi (literally“Donkey Market”) Hutong. During the reign of Emperor Xuantong of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the market was closed, and the alley was renamed Lishi Hutong. 

Located in the southeast part of Dongcheng District, Beijing, Lishi Hutong extends westwards from Chaoyangmen South Avenue to Dongsi South Street. It has a branch connecting to Yanyue Hutong and Dongcao Hutong in the south and a branch connecting to Guaibang Hutong and Qianchaomian Hutong in the north. The area is under the jurisdiction of Chaoyangmen Subdistrict. 

Lishi Hutong looks nondescript, but it was home to many historical celebrities. 

礼士胡同70号

70 Lishi Hutong 

刘墉故居

图片来源：野风Faith_Song微博

Former Residence of Liu Yong

Photo from Yefeng Faith_Song’s Weibo account 

礼士胡同70号为刘墉故居，经过多次改建，当年的原貌基本不复存在。随着《宰相刘罗锅》等影视作品的热映，刘墉的名字家喻户晓。刘墉是刘统勋的长子，幼年时在老家山东诸城念书，之后随父亲迁到京城的驴市胡同，曾官至尚书、体仁阁大学士，逝后谥“文清”。刘墉还是清代著名书法家、帖学大家。他的书法浑厚端庄，雄厚劲遒，与翁方纲、梁同书、王文治被称为“清四家”，被誉为浓墨第一人。刘氏父子两人先后入相，“一门两宰相”的佳话流传至今。

The former residence of Liu Yong, located at 70 Lishi Hutong, has been rebuilt several times, and today it is completely different from the original look. With the popularity of TV dramas and films like Prime Minister Hunchback Liu, Liu Yong, a high-ranking official of the Qing Dynasty, became a household name. As the eldest son of Liu Tongxun, Liu Yong grew up and studied in his hometown Zhucheng, Shandong Province, when he was young. Later, he moved to Lishi Hutong in Beijing along with his father. He was appointed as a minister and the Grand Scholar of Tiren Pavilion, and conferred on the posthumous title of Wenqing (literally“Upright Scholar”). Liu Yong was also an eminent calligrapher and rubbing expert in the Qing Dynasty. His calligraphy is elegant and powerful. For this reason, he is ranked among the“four most famous calligraphers of the Qing Dynasty” alongside Weng Fanggang, Liang Tongshu and Wang Wenzhi. He is even hailed as the“best calligrapher in thick ink”. He and his father both served as prime ministers, creating a lasting legend.

刘墉画像

图片来源：河南商报

A portrait of Liu Yong 

Photo from Henan Business Daily 

礼士胡同129号

129 Lishi Hutong

礼士胡同129号，这是一座标准的中式古典建筑，雕梁画栋气势非凡，并且临街竟有三个门脸，两侧均为八字形屏墙和砖花。

129号院的建筑非常考究。现在仍可看到，临街的八字墙上有精致的砖雕，大门三间。进门后，二门左右各有一石狮子，二门并列着两套四合院，园内有花厅、水池，花草树木点缀得体，显得怡然幽静。电视剧《大宅门》就在此拍摄外景。

The residence at 129 Lishi Hutong is a typical classical Chinese compound with richly ornamented buildings. It has three gates facing the street, each decorated with splayed screen walls and brick carvings.

The compound boasts an exquisite architectural style. The splayed walls facing the street are decorated with beautiful brick carvings. Through the main gate, one can see a pair of stone lions on both sides of the secondary gate, beside which are two quadrangle residences. Inside the compound are also a parlor, water pond, and lush plants, which create a tranquil ambience. The TV drama The Great Mansion Gate was filmed here.

礼士胡同129号

图片来源：黄金蟹钳大众点评

129 Lishi Hutong

Photo from Golden Crab Pincers’ comment on Dianping 

这座宅子曾经的主人是清末武昌知府宾俊。民国时，日本投机商李彦青趁日本大地震之机贩大米发了横财，买下这所院子。此后此宅又转手天津盐商李善人之子李领臣，李领臣请朱启钤的学生重新设计，使整个建筑风格典雅。解放后成为印度尼西亚驻华大使馆，后又为中国青年报社和电影局使用。

The compound formerly belonged to Bin Jun, governor of Wuchang in the late Qing Dynasty. During the Republic of China period (1912-1949), Japanese merchant Li Yanqing made big money by speculating rice trade during a severe earthquake in Japan, and he then bought the compound. Later, it was sold to Li Lingchen, the son of Tianjin salt dealer Li Yanqing. Li Lingchen asked a student of Li Qiqian, an expert in crafts and arts, to redesign this building complex, making it more elegant. After the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, it became the embassy of Indonesia in Beijing. Later, it served as the office building of China Youth Daily and China Film Administration. 

礼士胡同123号

123 Lishi Hutong

礼士胡同123号曾是一门两学士敬信、墨麒父子的大学士府。敬信是爱新觉罗氏，清朝正白旗人，生在道光十二年，曾任兵部尚书、户部尚书、协办大学士和体仁阁大学士等职。

The compound at 123 Lishi Hutong was formerly the mansion of Jingxin Aisin Gioro and his son Moqi, both Grand Scholars of the Qing Dynasty. Jingxin Aisin Gioro from the White Banner of the Manchu was born in 1832. He once served as the Minister of War, the Minister of Revenue, and Grand Scholar of Xieban, and Grand Scholar of Tiren Pavilion.

礼士胡同里123号敬信住宅

图片来源：黄金蟹钳大众点评

The former residence of Jingxin Aisin Gioro at 123 Lishi Hutong

Photo from Golden Crab Pincers’ comment on Dianping

敬信在礼士胡同的学士府院落宽敞气派，广亮大门前有两座上马石，质朴大方。民国时期，敬信宅还做过蒙藏院，就是北洋政府管理少数民族的工作部门。现为灯市口小学低年级部。

The former mansion of Jingxin Aisin Gioro in Lishi Hutong is spacious and magnificent. In front of the main gate are two stone horse-mounting blocks. During the Republic of China period, it served as the Mongolian and Tibetan Academy, an administrative department in charge of affairs related to ethnic minorities in the Beiyang government. It is now a campus of Dongshikou Primary School. 

灯市口小学低年级部

图片来源：杨捷美篇

A campus of Dongshikou Primary School

Photo from Yangjiemeipian 

礼士胡同127号

127 Lishi Hutong

礼士传习馆

图片来源：黄金蟹钳大众点评

Lishi Cultural Heritage Academy

Photo from Golden Crab Pincers’ comment on Dianping

走进礼士胡同127号，灰砖灰瓦，原木色的木格门，门楣上方挂着一块木牌匾，刻着“传习馆”三个字。外面天寒地冻，屋里温暖如春。木色的地板，洁白的墙壁，彩色板凳……40平方米的小屋明亮、温馨，文化味儿十足。

“传习馆”是举办胡同画展、传统文化课等活动的专门场所，对激活胡同活力，提升环境品质，丰富居民的文化生活有着重要作用。

“传习馆”还是个集章圣地，这里的印章主题都是北京京味民俗。“天子脚下处世宝典，老北京人行为准则”——这里有一套“北京老礼儿”印章，为你带来地道的北京味儿。

Entering the compound at 127 Lishi Hutong, one will see a wooden plaque carrying the inscription“Cultural Heritage Academy” above a wooden door of a house featuring grey bricks and roof tiles. Although the weather is cold outside, it feels like in spring inside. Wooden floor, white walls, colored stools… All of these make the 40-square-meter room bright and cozy, imbued with a cultural touch.

The Cultural Heritage Academy is a venue to hold painting exhibitions, traditional culture training sessions, and other activities. It plays a crucial role in invigorating the alley, improving the environment, and enriching local residents’ cultural lives.

It is also a“sacred place” for seal cutting. All seals displayed here are themed on folk customs of Beijing flavor, including a set of seals on the norms of conduct that older-generation Beijingers follow. 

礼士胡同

图片来源：娄旭在玩儿，努力的兔子大众点评

Lishi Hutong 

Photo from Lowxu-033 and Hardworking Rabbit’s comments on Dianping 

如今的礼士胡同已经焕然一新，两边绿树成荫，静谧幽深。如果在里面溜达着，一定会在中间路北的墙上看见十几块精美的砖雕，这些清朝留下来的砖雕，无不向来往的人们诉说着老北京的故事……

Today, Lishi Hutong has taken on a new look. The tranquil alley is hidden in lush shade. Visitors can find a dozen exquisitely carved bricks of the Qing Dynasty on the wall in the middle of the lane, which tell pedestrians the stories of old Beijing. 

敬请续关注“胡同文化”系列

Please follow us on the“Hutong Culture” series

胡同是北京深厚久远历史的产物，在这里你能够体会到最正宗的老北京味儿。北京的胡同，任岁月变迁，依旧不急不缓地伸展着，向来者讲述着自己的前世今生，《胡同文化》系列栏目将继续走进北京的老胡同，打捞记忆深处的胡同文化，敬请期待！

Hutongs are fruits of Beijing’s development in a long time, where you can taste the most orthodox flavor of the ancient capital. With the changes of the times, Beijing’s hutongs are still gradually evolving. They tell visitors the past and present stories of Beijing. The“Hutong Culture” series will continue brining audiences to old lanes of Beijing to awaken memories of the old hutong culture. Please stay tuned. 

参考文献：

1. 《中新画报》《北京：“百花深处”有人家》2022年9月28日。

2.小红书，作者：恒纪元2022