长安雅集 | 处暑观衣——感受美学生活品读服饰中的二十四节气

Chang’an Elegant Gathering: Clothes for Chushu

8月23日，“长安雅集·四时有度，美兮天成——处暑观衣”活动在北京市海外文化交流中心举办。此次活动由北京市海外文化交流中心、《茶界中国》联合策划，作为2022年“长安雅集”首场活动，邀请到北京服装学院教授、“度兮”品牌创始人郭瑞萍，现场由二十四节气作为出发点，以“衣”为核心，叙述二十四节气与服饰设计的内在联系及其带来的美学思考。郭瑞萍教授对符合处暑节气清凉氛围的服饰陈列进行了讲解，并通过效果图、纱线、织片等展示内容，呈现服饰“从无到有”的设计制作过程，来宾近距离感受了以二十四节气为主题设计服装的创意与魅力。

On August 23, 2022, a fashion event themed “Chang’an Elegant Gathering: Seasonal and Elegant Clothes for Chushu” was held at Beijing Overseas Cultural Exchanges Center. The event, jointly planned by Beijing Overseas Cultural Exchanges Center and Tea of China, was the first activity of the “Chang’an Elegant Gathering” series in 2022. It invited Guo Ruiping, professor at Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology and founder of the fashion brand Duxi, to narrate the internal connection between the 24th Solar Terms and fashion design as well as corresponding aesthetical thinking. Professor Guo shared her view on clothes suited for Chushu (or the End of Heat) when the weather becomes cool. Moreover, she demonstrated the process of fashion design through renderings, yarns, and woven fabrics, enabling participants to have a close contact with the inspiration and charm of clothes themed on the 24th Solar Terms.

“长安雅集·四时有度，美兮天成——处暑观衣”活动展厅

The exhibition hall of the “Chang’an Elegant Gathering: Seasonal and Elegant Clothes for Chushu”

二十四节气作为传承千年的非物质文化遗产，上至伦理、哲学，下至衣食住行，都与百姓的日常生活息息相关，千百年来，无声地浸润着生活起居、社会秩序和审美情趣。二十四节气与服饰设计之间的联系也成为了现代时尚潮流生活中的重要组成部分，服饰中传达的中国气质带来了对于二十四节气服饰设计的美学思考和启发。

As an intangible cultural heritage that has been handed down for more than 1,000 years in China, the 24th Solar Terms involve ethics, philosophy, and every aspect of daily life including clothing, food, accommodation, and travel. Over centuries, it has quietly nurtured Chinese lives, social order, and aesthetic taste. The connection between the 24th Solar Terms and fashion design has also become an integral part of modern fashion and lifestyles. The Chinese flavor embedded in clothes inspired thinking on the aesthetics in fashion design themed on the 24th Solar Term. 

比利时服装设计师现场分享

A Belgian fashion designer shares her ideas at the event

活动现场通过“跨国雅集”交流形式，与比利时艺术家和设计师Jehanne de Biolley现场开展对话。Jehanne de Biolley认为中国文化越来越成为现代时尚潮流生活中的重要组成部分，雅俗共赏的中国气质也正是中国的当代设计探索和寻找的精神所在。来到中国后，她四处寻找灵感，把旅行过程中的所见所闻编织成故事，体现在她的时尚系列设计中。中央电视台曾邀请她了解中国非遗，这使她有机会接触到苗绣，她认为苗绣技法就是西方时尚品牌中所认为的优雅、美丽。她特别高兴能在中国找到老手艺，并将苗绣中色彩绚丽、风格多样的古老图案符号运用到国际品牌的设计之中，将中国传统文化进行国际交融与碰撞。活动通过央视频、中国网平台同步直播，直播观看人数近四十万。

The event gathered fashion designers from various countries, at which participants had a dialogue with Belgian artist and designer Jehanne de Biolley. Biolley said that Chinese culture is becoming an important part of modern fashion and lifestyles, and the Chinese flavor that appeals to both refined and popular tastes just manifested the spirit explored and sought by modern Chinese designers. After arriving in China, she traveled many places to look for inspirations, and integrated what she saw and heard in China into her fashion design. CCTV once invited her to experience China’s intangible cultural heritage, and she thus got a chance to get to know Miao embroidery. She believes that Miao embroidery just represents the elegance and beauty advocated by Western fashion brands. She was happy to find the time-honored handicraft in China, and used the colorful, varying patterns of ancient Miao embroidery in the design of international brands, resulting in Chinese culture integrating and clashing with its international counterparts. The event was livestreamed on CCTV and China.org.cn, receiving nearly 400,000 views. 

嘉宾郭瑞萍现场讲解

Professor Guo Ruiping explains her works to other participants

长安雅集

“Chang’an Elegant Gathering”

“长安雅集”作为北京市海外文化交流中心的品牌项目，坚持不断探索以“沉浸式体验中国文人美学生活”的新模式，深入挖掘“北京之源”文化内涵，充分利用海外中心对外交往优势，推动线上线下融合，打造文化新体验。项目自策划以来先后成功举办了以“茶文化”“昆曲”“古琴”“中希文化交流”等为主题的丰富多样的专场文化活动。今年将继续融合民俗节气文化，结合传统服饰、茶具茶点、中轴线建筑、中外戏剧等文化元素，继续深入挖掘北京传统文化内涵，通过新技术加持，发掘融合文化魅力，以全新的世界视野精心选题，讲好中国故事，引领大众美好生活。

“Chang’an Elegant Gathering” is a brand program launched by Beijing Overseas Cultural Exchanges Center. Leveraging the center’s advantages in international exchanges, it aims to promote online-offline integration and create new cultural experiences through constantly exploring new models for immersive experiencing of aesthetical lifestyles of Chinese literati and tracing the origins of Beijing culture. Since its inception, the program has organized a series of cultural events with a variety of themes including tea culture, Kunqu Opera, Chinese lute, and China-Greece cultural exchange. This year, the program will continue to explore the connotations of traditional Beijing culture integrating folklore, traditional costumes, tea sets, buildings on the central axis of Beijing, Chinese and foreign operas, and other elements, so as to tap into the potential of cultural integration with a global vision, tell Chinese stories to the world, and create a better life for the public. 

活动合影

Participants pose for a photo at the event