北京味道 | 家常又讲究的老北京炸酱面：酱香浓郁 吃尽四季变换

北京味道 |家常又讲究的老北京炸酱面：酱香浓郁吃尽四季变换

A Bite of Beijing|Zhajiangmian: Beijing’s Signature Noodles

老北京炸酱面 

Zhajiangmian

说起中国的面食文化，那就不得不提起老北京炸酱面，作为北京极具代表性的文化符号之一，如果来了北京不品尝一碗炸酱面，多少会留下一些遗憾。

When talking about Chinese wheaten foods,Zhajiangmian, also known as“noodles with soybean paste”, shouldn’t be missed. It has become a cultural icon of Beijing cuisine. One would regret if he visits Beijing without tasting a bowl ofZhajiangmian.

“小碗干炸”“七碟八碗儿”，属于老北京炸酱面的颇多“术语”让初次尝试的吃客们摸不清头绪，别看这一碗小小的面，内里的“讲究”可不少。

Special terms related to Zhajiangmian, such as“Dry-fried Small Bowl” and“Seven Trays and Eight Bowls”, often puzzles diners who taste the delicacy for the first time. Many need to learn before tasting such a bowl of noodles.

炸酱面的历史源头

Origins ofZhajiangmian

有关北京炸酱面的起源有多种说法，相传八国联军进北京后，慈禧太后逃到了西安，有一家面馆的炸酱面得到了老佛爷和众大臣的一致称赞。后来慈禧太后把做炸酱面的人带到了北京，到皇宫里做炸酱面。从此，老北京炸酱面渐渐的流行开来。

There’re different stories about the origins ofZhajiangmian. One holds that after the Eight-Power Allied Forces occupied Beijing during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Express Dowager Cixi fled to Xi’an, where she and her chancellors happened to taste deliciousZhajiangmianoffered by a local restaurant. Later, Cixi brought the cook back to Beijing to make Zhajiangmian for the royal family. From then on,Zhajiangmian gradually became popular in Beijing.

不过据专家分析，老北京炸酱面产生的历史时期是清朝末期，《杂谈老北京》有记载，有一家开于清道光年间的老店，做的凉烂肉面受到食客的一致追捧。根据凉烂肉面的制作描述和北京当地老居民的形容，可以判断炸酱面应是由凉烂肉面衍化而来的。

Based on research, experts concluded thatZhajiangmian originated in Beijing in the late Qing Dynasty. According toAnecdotes of Old Beijing, a time-honored restaurant that dated back to the reign of Emperor Daoguang (1821-1850) offered noodles with minced pork and soybean paste, which was popular among diners. Based on the making process of this kind of noodles and the description by local residents,Zhajiangmian originated from it.

炸酱面三要素

Three Key Elements ofZhajiangmian 

老北京炸酱面有个神奇的地方，每一家饭馆都有着自己的味道，即便是普通百姓家中也有自己的“独门秘方”。不过万变不离其宗，老北京炸酱面最重要的三要素就是：面、酱、码。

It is interesting thatZhajiangmian offered by different restaurants has different taste. Even ordinary households have their own“secret recipes” to cookZhajiangmian. Nevertheless,Zhajiangmian has three key elements: noodles, sauces, and accompanying vegetables.

面要“抻”的才地道

Noodles need to be pulled before boiling

抻面是先将面擀成有一定厚度的面片，再用刀将面片切条，随后，在切成条的面片上洒上一层干面，双手拎起将已切好的厚宽条抻细抻长，即可投入锅中。如果是夏天吃，煮好的面通常在凉水中过一下，更加爽滑利口，即“过水面”；如果是冬天吃，可以从锅中直接捞出，北京人称之为“锅挑儿”。

The cook first rolls the dough into a thin pancake, cuts it into noodles, and then mixes with some dry flour. Before boiling them in the pot, he needs to pull the noodles to make them thinner and longer. In summer, boiled noodles are usually soaked in cool water for a while to make them smoother. But in winter, noodles are directly served after taking out of the hot water, which are called“Guotiao’er” by Beijing natives.

梁实秋先生在《雅舍谈吃》的“面条”一章中就曾提到，“用切面吃炸酱面，没听说过。”不过抻面难度大，更简单易行的手擀面，也就渐渐被接受了。

In the chapter“Noodles” ofRecollections of a Gourmet, famous scholar Liang Shiqiu said,“I’ve never heard someone madeZhajiangmian with cut noodles.” However, due to the difficulty in making hand-pulled noodles, handmade cut noodles were slowly accepted.

“炸酱”是精髓所在

Fried sauce is the key

老北京人炸酱要准备黄酱和甜面酱两种酱，按比例混合后加水调和。肉则选用上好五花肉，切丁入锅后煸之出油，这样可以保证肥肉不腻的同时，让酱也富含油分。

Older-generation Beijingers use brown soybean paste and sweet soybean paste mixed with water to make fried sauce. They also fry them with minced steaky pork until the sauce becomes greasy in the pot. In this way, the sauce tastes neither too greasy nor dry.

炸酱讲究“小碗干炸”，小碗意味着现吃现做，干炸意思是烹饪无水。这样制成的酱呈半凝固状，表面有较多油脂，黏稠泛光，肉丁亮中透红，香气扑鼻。

“Dry-fried Small Bowl” means that freshly prepared sauce is fried without water. The sauce made this way is semi-solidified, with grease on the surface glistening with luster and reddish minced pork emitting strong fragrance.

面码跟随时令变化

Accompanying vegetables change with the seasons

老北京人吃炸酱面，要根据季节佐以各种时鲜小菜，行话叫“七碟八碗儿”，不是指碟子碗加起来十五个，而是形容炸酱面的菜码之多、种类之丰富。

Older-generation Beijingers eatZhajiangmian alongside seasonal vegetables, which are called“Seven Trays and Eight Bowls”. That doesn’t mean it really requires 15 containers, but implies the diverse varieties of accompanying vegetables.

炸酱面的面码，吃的就是一个新鲜：春天要吃豆芽菜、萝卜缨儿和香椿芽儿；初夏配新蒜、黄瓜丝、韭菜段；秋天是胡萝卜丝和芹菜末；冬天要吃萝卜丝，还有焯过的大白菜切丝。搭配起来赏心悦目，送到嘴里回味无穷。

Accompanying vegetables forZhajiangmian are seasonal: bean sprouts, radish sprouts and Chinese toon sprouts in spring, garlics, sliced cucumbers and leeks in early summer, shredded carrots and minced celeries in autumn, and shredded radish and shredded Chinese cabbage in winter. Such accompanying vegetables not only look attractive but also taste delicious. 

一碗炸酱，是历史与人文的碰撞

一口面条，品尝那份千年不变的京味儿

老北京炸酱面

不仅是一道菜肴

更转化成了一种文化符号

承载着老北京的文化和故事

A bowl of fried sauce heartens to history and culture of the past;A bite of noodles awakens memories of Beijing flavor unchanged for centuries.

Beijing Zhajiangmian

is more than just a kind of food;

it has become a cultural iconthat carries old Beijing’s culture and stories.